Installation
Installation Best Practices:
Ensuring the longevity and performance of your architectural millwork. Follow these industry-standard protocols for site preparation, handling, and the secure installation of solid hardwood components.
1. Site Preparation (Critical)
The 3-Day Rule (Acclimatization)
Solid hardwood is organic and hygroscopic. To prevent warping, cupping, or gaps:
Environment: The job site must be enclosed with HVAC running. Relative humidity should be stable between 35% and 55%.
Timeline: Store all treads and millwork in the installation room for a minimum of 3-5 days prior to cutting.
Storage: Stack treads flat on raised stickers or blocks. Never store wood directly on concrete floors or in a garage.
2. Tool Recommendations
Cutting: Sliding Compound Miter Saw (minimum 10″ blade, 12″ recommended for deep treads).
Blade: 80-Tooth finish blade (to prevent tear-out).
Adhesive: High-grade Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (e.g., PL Premium or Bona R850). Do not use water-based glue.
Fastening: 16-Gauge Finish Nailer (2″ nails) or Trim Screws.
Measurement: Digital Angle Finder (Protractor) for precise winder and return cuts.
3. Standard Tread Installation (8070 - New Construction)
1. Prepare the Stringers
Ensure your rough framing stringers are level and free of debris. If the stringer is bowed, shim it level before installation to prevent the tread from squeaking or rocking.
2. Measure & Cut
Measure the span tight to the skirtboard. If using a “Left/Right Return” tread, measure from the wall to the outside edge of the skirtboard. Cut the tread to length, ensuring a tight fit against the wall.
3. Apply Adhesive
Apply a generous bead of construction adhesive to the top of the stringer run. We recommend a “serpentine” (S-shape) pattern to maximize surface contact.
4. Fasten
Place the tread firmly onto the adhesive.
Nailing: Drive 2-3 finish nails into each stringer, positioned towards the back of the tread (where the riser will cover them) and near the nosing (countersink and fill with color-matched putty).
Weighted Bond: Walking on the treads immediately helps set the adhesive bond.
4. Retro-Fit Installation (8071 - Remodeling)
1. Demolition (The Nose Cut)
You must remove the overhang (nosing) of the existing rough step. Cut the old wood flush with the riser so you have a square 90-degree corner.
Warning: If you do not remove the old nose, the Retro-fit tread will not sit flat, or it will extend too far, violating code.
2. Clean & Prep
Remove all old carpet staples, nails, and debris. The sub-stair must be perfectly flat.
3. Install the Riser First
Measure and cut your 8071 Retro Riser first. Glue and nail it to the face of the old step.
4. Install the Tread
Apply adhesive to the entire surface of the old step. Slide the 8071 Retro Tread into place, ensuring the groove under the nose locks over the new riser (if using a tongue-and-groove system) or sits tight against it. Nail inconspicuously along the back edge.
5. Finishing Guidelines
Sanding: Unique Wood Products components are machined to 120-grit. We recommend a light hand-sanding with 220-grit paper prior to staining to remove oils or handling marks.
Sealing: For maximum stability, apply a seal coat to the bottom of the tread before installation. This balances the moisture absorption and further prevents cupping.
Protection: After finishing, cover treads with Ram Board or heavy cardboard if construction is continuing in the house.
Liability Note: These instructions are provided as a general guide for industry-standard practices. Unique Wood Products acts solely as a manufacturer and assumes no liability for installation errors, code non-compliance, or labor costs. Always consult your local building codes and verify specific structural requirements with a licensed contractor.
Our Locations
South Houston
- 6815 Easthaven, Bldg A,Houston, TX 77017
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Monday – Friday: 7:30AM – 4:30PM PST
Saturday: 8:00AM – 12:00PM PST
North Houston
- 9915 Tanner Road, Houston, TX 77041
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Monday – Friday: 7:30AM – 4:30PM PST
Saturday: 8:00AM – 12:00PM PST